party season trousers Morv London
rare card c.1910 from dealer Val Jackson-Harris at The Ephemera Society Winter Fair
Sometimes less is more. This is the approach of designer Laura Ironside, who set-up her label with the aim of creating seasonless garments, thoughtfully, through sensitive and sustainable manufacturing.
For some, sustainable fashion is a contradiction in terms, and seasonless has only become part of the fashion vocab with the faster cycle encouraged by new shopping habits like see-now, buy-now.
Collections drop quicker than seasons transition. Laura’s approach is more like season-less. With the first collection, Edit-01 under her belt, she is not in any rush to produce Edit-02, adamant to slow down the fashion cycle and let the first collection live. If like me, you quickly fall for her edgy, womanly 1930s silhouettes, rest assured, when Edit-02 comes around it will fit just so, and Edit-01 won’t be pushed to the back of the wardrobe because it’s so identifiably last season.
Another move towards a time when the words sustainable and fashion can comfortably coexist is through garment leasing. Laura is trialling this model to open her luxury pieces to more women. I leased this copper crepe-backed satin silk dress for the price I could have paid for an occasion dress on the high street. The difference is, once the occasion is over, it won’t sit in my wardrobe, but sooner get a lease of life from the next woman that wears it.
Here is my first leasing experience and interview with Laura Ironside.
Laura on the beginning of her label and consciously bringing products into the world. I had worked for some years in London for a number of fashion labels, but had always wanted to return to Scotland to set up my own label. When I first returned I was working with leather and found it very hard to get high-end leather pieces made in the UK. I spent a long time in product development, I met craftsmen and women from all over the UK and it was during this time that I developed a deeper understanding and respect for the craft that goes into making a single product. It also made me appreciate that if you’re deciding to bring new products into the world you need to be conscious of the impact these products are having. It made me re-evaluate my whole approach to designing and starting a brand. Although I was unsuccessful in continuing the leather work, which was very difficult at the time, after I took some time out I slowly began developing the Edit-01 collection and the ethos of the brand was built through that seemingly unsuccessful experience.
Giving Edit-01 time to breathe. I think it’s easy in the industry to feel pressure to quickly create something new, I definitely feel that, especially as I love to create new work too. I have to remind myself to slow down! Obviously the whole ethos of the brand is slowing down and encouraging women to invest in long-lasting pieces so it’s important that I encourage this with how I approach the collections too. At the moment I want to keep focused on this collection and getting out there. It’s great to see the pieces on different body types and see women styling it in different ways. I’m also learning what works and what isn’t and taking that forward into the new collection. It’s important to me to get feedback from our existing audience and learn and grow from that, while also hopefully balancing it with exciting new and fresh ideas.
Those 1930s silhouettes. I love the elegance of the 1930s. I love the idea of women’s clothes being sexy, but without showing off a lot of skin. I wanted the collection to celebrate femininity and the woman’s body, yet still be demure and elegant. I was aiming to give the 1930s silhouettes some edge, bringing them up-to-date whilst still maintaining their elegance.
It can be very challenging for consumers to track the journey of a garment and find out what it is made of, where, by who and under what conditions. As a designer, Laura faces similar challenges seeking transparency from suppliers. It is so difficult. I can give you an example actually – when I was looking for fabrics for the collection I asked 6 different fabric suppliers for details about their manufacturing, ie. their compliance with EU regulations in respect of ecological and ethical procedures. 4/6 either didn’t know, didn’t respond or wouldn’t disclose. It’s a constant challenge, but I think the more we ask questions as designers, as retailers, as consumers, as anyone who wears clothes (!) the more likely it is for transparency to become the norm in supply chains.
How Laura defines seasonless fashion. For me it is about good quality investment pieces, it’s something that’s made well that makes you feel good. I think you can be playful with how you style-up pieces no matter the season and no matter the cut/style or fabric of a garment. Seasonless fashion does not have to be dull either.
I am from Scotland, where the seasons all seem to merge together and you need to be dressed for all eventualities, so perhaps that’s really where my affinity for seasonless fashion comes from.
Why she chose an atelier in London to sample and produce her collection. It was important to me that the collection was produced in the UK. After location, I was then guided by quality of finish and workmanship. I had tried a number of different places but already had a rapport with this particular atelier. I went to visit them in Greenwich and they were just so open and easy to work with. We began sampling with them from then on and now work with them on small batch production.
How Laura’s sustainable business ambitions extend to other personal areas of her life. I am a real fan of second-hand/antique furniture and homeware like vases, kitchen crockery and tins. When I can it always feels better to use fresh produce for cooking and also to buy locally and buy natural products. I’ve enjoyed making some of my own cosmetics recently too. But as ever, it can be so difficult to remain diligent throughout all areas, at every moment, for one reason or another. I think everyone can do the best they can at the period of life they’re at and make positive changes, but I don’t give myself a hard time about it. In the past year or so I’ve got better at just owning less and really thinking about whether or not I need something, in all areas of my life.
Laura’s mission for garment leasing, is this the future for sustainable fashion? I think one of the main things is accessibility, I know that higher price tags for sustainable products makes things so difficult for people who really do want to engage in a more ethical approach to their wardrobe, but don’t feel that they can afford it. Leasing clothes at a lower price opens this up to a wider audience, if garments are shared it reduces the risk of them hanging in a dark corner of someone’s wardrobe unused, or worse, in landfill. Higher price tags can make people feel like they have no alternative but to shop on the high street for their special occasion, even though they would prefer something different, something unique. It also allows people to try something before they potentially invest in a piece.
At the moment we are very much in the trialling stages, we want to listen to our early lease customers and learn, so we can make this service the best it can be. It would be amazing to think of more brands doing something similar in the future, absolutely.
I highly recommend leasing from Laura Ironside. Luxuriously delivered to and collected from your door, it is a dream for those a custom to small space urban living. Why should our experiences be confined by the extent of our storage space? I didn’t need to buy the Laura Ironside Knight dress to own it that day.
©Photographs Reclaimed Woman
Run, don’t walk through the gates of Goldfinger’s Haggerston School when the Midcentury East show returns to the London Borough of Hackney on 15 October 2017 – for pieces like this psychedelic film poster from exhibitor Orson & Welles will be in high demand.
It has been longer than I care to note since this time of year yielded a timetable and new school books, but there is still something about the autumn air that brings a blank page ready for new adventures.
Seasons dominated by an increasing desire for midcentury design can be traced to the tastes of Petra Curtis and Lucy Ryder Richardson, the duo behind Midcentury Modern®. Modern Shows, including Midcentury East is the expansion of Showhome, a one-off event set in Lucy’s sixties house with a mix of pieces they both loved. Fifteen years later and the pair have achieved multiple gold stars for their design shows, sourcing for clients like Saatchi & Saatchi and The Modern Marketplace, their directory of the best C20 dealers and C21 designers. “We did it organically and are really proud of the way we tackled every step without getting into any debt and managed to be there to pick up our kids from school” says Lucy, with the brightest gold star feeling for working mums.
The first thing Lucy tells me is that her and Petra still love their jobs. Perhaps immersing oneself in the post-war period, where people appreciated the little things, a time when designers created within constraints and built things to last is a good way to find fulfilment? I interviewed Lucy for answers, news about their next show and advice on making a modern business.
Artemide Alistro Morsetto desk lamp from exhibitor Punk the Clock
Is the eco-friendly side of antiques in that their environmental cost has already been paid an important consideration for antique dealers to attract new customers?
I don’t think it is as important as turning a deal or they would all be driving electric vans. Our dealers love quality and heritage and are very proud of the pieces they bring to the show. They are all concerned with the authenticity of the piece and longevity of product use with the fact that these pieces from the midcentury were not created to self destruct to encourage more sales like so much modern landfill. The eco side of it is very important to me, Petra and our customers. We keep paper to a minimum and print on both sides of everything. We never over-print show maps. We are more likely to under print as we hate waste.
You have created a strong loyal following for your shows and marketplace. How do you stay front of mind?
With a huge dollop of passion and by telling stories. Our Inside Modernism blog insidemodernism.co.uk shows you our inner workings as a business and Destination Modernism destinationmodernism.com shows you the kinds of places we, and a few midmod fans, love going to. We are on Instagram and Twitter almost daily and Facebook about twice a week and try to make a You Tube video when we can. We really enjoy meeting the families of all the C20th designers whether it is at the shows or through interviewing them – we enjoy feeling immersed in that world as a kind of escape from this one.
Illum Wikkelso chair from exhibitor Twentieth Century Antiques
Responsibilities follow you even further when you have your own company and it becomes harder to define work time and you time, because the business is you time too. What advice would you give someone just starting their own business?
Make time for social media. It is essential to any creative company these days with Instagram Facebook and You Tube being the main ones. Have people sign a mailing list and build up a following. Send an email out once a month. Give them something for free. Dont just ask them to give you money. We give them blog posts about destinations, find archive footage to share on Facebook, that kind of thing and when we can afford it we have the occasional party or launch.
What is the first thing you do when you get a moment for you?
I meditate and spend time with my two children Molly and Bert and friends and family whenever I can. I love dancing to soul music when the kids are busy. Modcast and Soul Affair on Facebook are great groups to join if you want to get in with that scene. Petra has three kids and two are studying in Eindhoven and Berlin so she likes visiting them. We both still love a good antiques fair and the Barbican and South Bank are always favourite spots for a mooch about in London. You don’t see brutalism much better than that.
If you’re planning to pay a visit to Midcentury East, here are Lucy’s tips.
Bring your ping pong bats and balls for you or the kids as there are ping pong tables out the back by the catering vans.
Don’t worry about bringing a car as most dealers deliver at the end of the day and if they are booked-up we have a delivery man on-site.
Visit the Geffrye Museum, Hackney City Farm (if with kids) or head to the market on Columbia Road and haggle for the last flowers and plants at rock bottom prices at 3pm.
Between you and me, hush hush, Lucy and Petra have been asked to produce a show at Hepworth Wakefield gallery next year and Lucy is onto writing her second book after the success of 100 Midcentury Chairs and their stories.
The result of relentless research, tracking down the families of design greats for the real facts- you can sit comfortably with this chair book to pass the time until October’s Midcentury East.
15 October 2017
Erno Goldfinger’s Haggerston School, Weymouth Terrace, London, E2 8LS
9am early entry for trade and collectors is £15
10am-4pm is £10 or check out advance ticket deals here
©Photographs courtesy of Modern Shows
I just watched the nineties classic So I Married an Axe Murderer for the first time. If you haven’t seen it, I urge you to check out Mike Myers’ beatnik poetry performance from the film. Hence why my fashion and home fashion mash-up features cats and hearts this week.
Whether you’re into antiques or not, Tallboy Interiors takes a new approach to old interiors that can inspire us all for the cosy season ahead.
On his 18th birthday, Matt Dixon of Tallboy Interiors was given £1000 from his parents to spend as he wanted. Instead of blowing it, he decided to invest the money in various antique pieces and thus his addiction and business was born.
Red or dead
No, I am not referring to the controversial Brit shoe brand, but a desire for darker interiors, a new take on tapestry and rich reds. Once upon a time wearing different tones of red, mismatching scarlet with crimson, gave the impression you got dressed in the dark. Matt describes his style as “mismatched but works. I like to try different pieces, patterns, colours, ages. Nothing needs to match for it to work necessarily.” Now is the time to embrace mismatched. Enjoy ebonised antique wood, dark interiors, and dress yourself and your home in red.
This tapestry and velvet covered table sits on the edge between elegant and artsy. Pom Poms are trending big time, but antique pom pom tassels will retain crafty charm.
An awareness for more thoughtful purchasing has produced an abundance of green living trends, from eco friendly antiques and natural materials to literally green coloured interiors. Merging our environments by bringing the outside in and inside out is increasingly popular. These Mid-20th-Century Willy Guhl planters are statement greenery that can work inside and out.
Relaxed rose, terracotta, cinnamon, rust. All great shades and even better in velvet, both grand, intimate and above all, cosy.
©Photographs courtesy of Tallboy Interiors
I couldn’t resist Randy’s Reproductive System Sweater from Rachel Antonoff for World Population Day with a portion of the proceeds being donated to Planned Parenthood (even if it is harder to get your hands on in the UK)
Barocco handcraft pieces like these Wishbone earrings using ancient casting techniques and work with Fair Trade and recycled metals. Shop at Gather & See
ZAO organic eyeshadow in Pearly Old Pink Beautifully Organic
Vegan note pad with 100% recycled nylon lining Matt & Nat
Fair & true orange skirt from Fashion-Conscience.com
Stella McCartney faux-leather loafers MatchesFashion.com
Dip into Deco bathrooms
Resurfaced roll top baths, Deco bathroom suites, Belfast and Butler sinks. With so much salvaged sanitary ware out there, it is not necessary to buy new. Look to salvage dealers like Mongers that supply reconditioned taps too.
Period old things from playful young things
Standing tall, Matt Dixon of Tallboy Interiors and Buster below, part of the Vagabond Antiques family. Both businesses won a free Salvo stand in the Antiques Young Guns competition – a support network for people under 39 working in the antiques industry.
These dealers are changing the stuffy image of antiques and getting playful with period pieces. What could be more sustainable than buying furniture built to last, and reused over-and-over again?
Ethical eating and drinking at Silo with Old Tree Brewery
Zero waste restaurant, Silo chef Douglas McMaster’s mission is always the first thing critics note. The taste however, is just as mind-blowing. V for veggie, I ordered the contemporary calzone filled with curried plant-based goodness in the Silo at Salvo pop up. Washed down with Kombucha from Old Tree Brewery, a social enterprise that combines brewing and gardening to make nourishing, delicious drinks.
They supply ethical restaurants like Silo in Brighton, where Old Tree also run their Brewhouse Café. And if you’re nowhere near Brighton, you can buy their drinks online.
I sampled their Sencha green tea Kombucha, which is both earthy and energising and packed with probiotics.
Time for change with Clock Props
I haven’t worn a watch since I was a teenager. Perhaps because I grew up with a phone to tell me the time, but I fell for this Salvo Fair stand of clocks.
With a collection of over 500 clocks, a visit to Clock Props’ showroom back in London is high on my to-see list. Buy or hire. They probably have the largest selection of clocks in the UK, and they are a go-to for interior and set designers.
Mahala and Roomi Apparel
I’ve been banging on about ethical homeware and accessories brand Mahala for a while and I finally got my hands on one of the signature bags made of old military canvas and British saddlery leather. I must however leave room to mention Roomi Apparel. Designed by the talented husband of Emily Griffin, the woman behind Mahala, Roomi Apparel is a new unisex brand made in East London. Colourful coats on the left hand rail below suited both the tall men and petite women that tried them. One sustainable size fits all.
The real deal in retro arm candy
I’m a shoe woman, but exhibitors in my Fair Fashion pop up converted me into a bag lady. I rarely buy bags, but Salvo Fair had me spending on salvaged and vintage arm candy including this ’50s Corde bag with rare lucite handles.
Bag from Mary Jones Vintage worn with my ’70s jumpsuit from Snooper’s Attic, Snooper’s Paradise, 7-8 Kensington Gardens, Brighton.
Conscious shopping with Chris Holmes Antiques
Also a bag of sorts… this French antique hod from Avignon was worn on grape pickers’ backs in the ’20s. Hand painted with Chateau Neuf Du-Pape – until the 14th Century the Pope resided in Avignon and this is the crest representing his vineyard.
We thought it would make a special statement piece in our patio that could double as an ice bucket for parties! I’ll be revealing more of my flat and the reclaimed renovation project soon.
Grand Clearance Auctions
Fresh from the fair field, exhibitor Insitu is organising a clearance auction in Manchester on Saturday 8th – Sunday 9th July 2017. Clearing stock ready for the final stage of renovations to their Italianate style Grade II listed Victorian building. Auctions are a great place to pick up rare pieces at good prices.
Vintage furniture house Metroretro
Saxon of Metroretro dressed London’s Sky Garden with his bespoke collection of reclaimed furniture and this weekend he dressed the Silo at Salvo pop up restaurant. Also a regular at Modern Shows, look out for Metroretro with mid-mod and industrial pieces at Midcentury East on Sunday 15th October 2017.
The all-electric pollution free supercar
EVision Supercars is the first UK chauffeur-driven car hire service that chauffeur in London with a nationwide fleet that exclusively comprises of all-electric, Tesla.
A conscious alternative for a luxurious airport transfer or a special event (the white gullwing Model X is popular for weddings).
They also offer self-drive hire so you can experience electric as the new car era ushers in.
©photographs Reclaimed Woman